|
NB Before you start,
read the following carefully:
|
- Check that all vents and airbricks are unblocked and that boiler
flues are clear
- Don't fit full draught proofing in rooms containing gas boilers,
gas fires or open fires
- If you use bottled gas or paraffin heaters, do not draught proof
any of the windows in the house
- If you have condensation or mould, call one of our advisors
on 0800 358 6669 for further advice
- It is recommended that you fit draught proofing on the external
envelop of the property i.e. all windows and doors, the letterbox
and keyhole
- As far as internal doors go, only draught proof toilet or pantry
doors where the rooms have fixed vents
- Make sure you only buy materials marked as conforming to British
Standards 7386
Draught proofing windows
| To draught proof wooden windows (expect for sash windows),
follow the instructions for doors as below. |
 |
For sash windows, fit brushes or rubber wipers to the inside of
the frame by starting at the bottom, working up the sides, across
the central bar and up the sides of the upper panel. Fit seals to
the outside of the frame but make sure you can still shut the windows
and secure the window catches.
Draught proofing doors
Draught proofing a door is a 3 stage process.
Stage 1: Fitting the draught strip
- Cut a 45° angle at one end of the strip. If it is impossible
to keep a pinhole within 25mm of each end, make a new hole.
- Now measure the width within the top of the doorframe and cut
the other end of the strip, also at a 45° angle.
- Close the door, press the carried into the frame and slide it
against the head of the door until the seal is half compressed.
Nail the strip in place.
- Repeat for the side strips, cutting 45° angles at the top
and 90° angles at the bottom. Make sure that the gaps between
the top and sides is wind tight and use a Stanley knife to trim
any rough edges that might catch on the door.
Stage 2: Fitting the bottom seal
- Cut a length of seal that is about 5mm less than the length
of the door strip.
- Position the carrier as close to the bottom as possible. Open
the door to check that it doesn't hit the frame. If it does, then
trim it shorter.
- Trim 1mm off the ends of the seal and close the ends of the
carrier.
- Close the door and put the carrier in place so the seal rests
on the floor covering and fix in place.
- If there is a weather board, only run the trim to this.
c. Letterbox and keyhole cover
- Fit a letter box cover to the inside of the front door, making
sure you can still pass letters through the gap.
- Fit a keyhole cover on the outside of the door.
|